Thanks for joining me on the journey.

My blog has migrated to a new host and is being painstakingly reconstructed here. Please bear with me as I iron out wrinkles, hammer out the dents, and apply enough spit and duct tape to hold it all together. — Karen

  • The Bed Bug Apocalypse

    “Ah, civilization,” Rich said as we stumbled into our Romanian hotel just short of midnight. We’d been staying in a rural village that had scarcely changed in 500 years, and it was comforting to be in a modern, well-appointed hotel. A sleepy young woman handed us keys, and when we got to the room, we…

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  • The Six-Headed Saint of Genoa

    Rich on the ferry arriving in Genoa “Genoa? Last time I was there, it was full of prostitutes and muggers,” commented a friend upon learning Rich and I were planning to take a ferry there last summer. “Especially down by the docks.” Yikes! Arriving shortly after dawn one August morning, Rich and I felt lucky…

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  • Finding a Hairstylist Abroad: The Good, the Bad & the Unexpected

    A friend tries Kim’s Barber Shop, San Francisco There comes a moment in every long journey when you look in the mirror and face the fact that you’re overdue for a haircut. Perhaps a soupçon of gray is showing where it shouldn’t. Possibly your faux hawk is beginning to flop, your bob is becoming a…

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  • It Just Wouldn’t Be the Holidays Without This!

    “You’re getting a Christmas tree ?” Spanish friends used to say, with such incredulity that I might as well have announced we were building an igloo in our living room. “A live tree? Really?” “Where are you getting a tree?” expat friends would ask, eyeing us a trifle suspiciously, as if we had a direct…

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  • 6 Ways to Give Your Travel Photos Zing

    Kids, this is what cameras looked like in the 50s. When I was little, my mother took some phenomenally bad photos because she never learned how to close one eye, which you had to do to see through the tiny viewfinders on pre-digital cameras. As a result, her pictures showed miles of background – often…

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  • 10 Best Things I Know About Packing

    Original contents of my 54 x 34 x 19 cm (21 x 13 x 7.5 inches) suitcase Three months of living out of a suitcase has taught me a lot about packing. For one thing, I’ve learned how to jettison stuff that wasn’t as essential as I’d thought. (Click here to see my original packing…

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  • Train Lag

    Our cabin on the Dubrovnik-Bari ferry It was a dark and stormy night on the Adriatic. “’The sea was angry that day, my friends,’” said Rich, quoting the Seinfeld episode where George plays a marine biologist. “’Like an old man trying to send back soup in a deli.’” We were reeling about the pitching ferry,…

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  • There’s Something About Montenegro

    “I’ve been on the road for six months,” said Denise, an Irishwoman I met in the Czech Republic. “Sure, that last town was pretty, but at this point, for me to say a place is special, it would have to be dipped in gold.” Now, after three months of travel, I know just what Denise…

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  • Pssst! Want to Find a Great Speakeasy?

    The speakeasy’s front gate Belgrade is a city that knows how to keep its secrets. The underground bar we were seeking had two different names, the street it was on ceased to exist years ago, and while our map was in standard Roman lettering, the street names, if posted at all, were in Cyrillic. Naturally…

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  • Finding Fleshpots & Flophouses Along the Way

    ​“Sorry about the smell,” said our hostess, leading us into a large, chilly apartment that stank of sewage. “There is nothing we can do about it.” She flung open a window, and the temperature began to plummet. “Unfortunately there is no heat. Heat is controlled by the building, and they have not yet turned it…

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CELEBRATING GOOD NEIGHBORS
These days I’m writing about Good Neighbors, exploring how the people around me are working to help each other get through these challenging times. My weekly posts appear on Tuesday or Wednesday, depending on my travel and research schedule.

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